• Yea, I’m aware of that Marc, but in history books, they say that Canada became, symbolically of course, a country in WWI at the battle of Vimy because for the first time, the entire canadian army was fighting and dying together. It was us against Germany. Of course, with support of the UK. But the main forces were Canadians against Germany


  • @Imperious:

    I’d be curious to read their financial statements and see if Avalon Hill even makes a profit, and I’d also be curious to talk to their marketing directors.

    Financial statements? I think the idiots write it on the back of all the bags of Taco Bell drive thru while they fart in their cars on the way back from a 3 hour lunch break. That is if they are not too bothered to stop reading the latest D$D fictional novel about some idiot wizard or memorizing what saving throw to make for a spell they might be conjuring. They must be a team of total misfits and malcontents and government chain gang furlough types based on the asinine methods they run the business.  I would have them all fired on the spot and no severance pay.

    Heh, another non-satisfied customer statement non-withstanding, I’d say we agree on this issue!  WoTC IZ TARTED!  FO REELZ!  BOYCOTT HASBRO AND WoTC FOR THEIR ASININE BUSINESS PRACTICES!!!  (Though I very much doubt they’d even care listening since it seems their main objective is to bankrupt the A&A franchise anyway).


  • Didn’t I just see this complaint in another post. I think without having any real knowledge that WOtC got lucky and struck it rich with their Magic game but are still learning how to run their business.


  • @Omega:

    The “IN AAP40” might suggest that ANZAC will be controlled by UK in the global game. I don’t know for sure.

    I think you could be right on this, in the Pacific game they will play as totally separate nations taking there turn at different times (having some limited joint strike ability would be cool). It sounds like in the global game they could be merged back into one kinda. Keep in mind they will be different colors. Maybe one player controls both. The Aznac gets its own IC’s. Ipc’s generated by Anzac must be spent there. Finally they move together as one nation. This would be pretty cool and open up a whole new front to Japan. In many AA games unless UK builds down under, this area falls to Japan pretty early. By a fix amount of income being spent there it could help do away with a KGF strat.


  • Somehow  we got off the topic of box art.


  • @LuckyDay:

    Product Description on Funagain…

    Axis & Allies celebrates 25 years of strategy war gaming with a deluxe edition of its original theater-level game. Axis & Allies Pacific 1940, designed and developed by Larry Harris, utilizes the updated rules established in A&A Anniversary Edition. Two new combat units debut in this game, Tactical Bombers and Mechanized Infantry. Australia and New Zealand, joined together as the ANZAC forces, represent a new playable ally. China fields more forces than ever before, but will need help from their allies – the United States and England – to withstand the might of expansionist Imperial Japan.
    Axis & Allies Pacific 1940 features an oversized board that measures 35 inches wide by 32 inches high. With over 450 pieces, deluxe game components and local storage boxes, this game raises the standard established by A&A Anniversary Edition. All new rules for neutral nations, naval & air bases, kamikaze attacks and convoy disruption add even more depth and historical accuracy to this giant game.
    Finally, this deluxe theater-level game is designed to join together with Axis & Allies Europe 1940 to create the greatest Axis & Allies experience to date! When joined, these boards will measure 5 feet wide by 32 inches high. Both games have been designed to play alone or together to offer a 2-6 player global 1940 scenario, complete with separate set up and national objectives.

    Is my math wrong or did someone make a mistake???

    Assuming that the AAP40 and AAE40 boards are the same size, 32 inches is definitely the height but the widths are different!!!  Is it 5ft (60 inches) or 70 inches the width of the global game???

    :?


  • 32 x 70 combined, so 32 x 36 each


  • @Imperious:

    32 x 70 combined, so 32 x 36 each

    Wouldn’t that be 32 x 35 each?


  • typo, yes your correct.


  • That should be big enough to hold a lot of pieces.


  • I’m so excited about the new size but at the same time I’m thinking of where the heck I’m going to put this monstrosity. I’ll need to buy another dining room table!


  • Just build a game room, no big deal.


  • We have played on 1/2 a ping pong table before. I guess we’ll just have to take down the net now. :-D


  • @WILD:

    We have played on 1/2 a ping pong table before. I guess we’ll just have to take down the net now. :-D

    YES, I have one of those. Great idea Bill! LOL at Brain Damaged, I’ll just convert my garage to the A&A room. Needs A/C though….


  • You can get one of those window AC’s at Costco for about $200 which is cheaper than AA50


  • Sad but true……


  • The setup I use for handling extra-large game boards (like the one for The War Game: World War II) is to place several card tables (the kind with legs that fold for storage) end-to-end.

    I find that card tables work well because they’re inexpensive to buy, they give you the option of getting as many or as few as you need, and they’re usable regardless of whether or not you have space to devote to a full-time gaming area.  If you’re short on space, you can set them up temporarily for a game then fold them and put them away when you’re done.  If on the other hand you have enough room to leave them set up long-term, the space under the row of folding tables can conveniently serve double-duty as storage space for your game equipment.  That’s where I keep the plastic tackle boxes in which I store my A&A sculpts.

    Depending on how smooth the combined surface of the table-tops is, you might want to put something stiff in between the tables and the game board to provide a more level surface (which can be helpful when the game board is in several pieces). Foamcore posterboard is one option; another is a material called (I think) coroplast – basically it’s structured like heavy cardboard, but it’s made out of plastic.  I buy mine at a store that sells artists’ supplies.

    CWO Marc


  • Interesting, so far I have been either using my dining room table, which is about five feet by three feet, or a folding table, which is 2x4. I guess I’ll either buy 1 or two more of those folding tables or make due with my dining room table somehow.


  • I need pictures of the setup!


  • @cannon:

    I need pictures of the setup!

    Here’s what it looks like:

    Gaming Table.JPG

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