Help!

@Krameleon

Welcome!

One thing to keep in mind is that the Axis only need to win on one side of the board.

This means, that if a Japanese strategy is good enough, even if Germany gets their butt kicked the Axis might still be able to win if Germany buys enough time for Japan to win.

It’s still risky, of course, as an increase in IPCs on the Europe board can translate to an increase in units in the Pacific, but it’s an option and a far more viable one than the equal version for the Allies.

Personally I’m not a fan of J1 or G1, but that is more out of principle than practicality.

I found this cool J1 video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRi3aIsj8P8

Important note about this video:

There are some astericks in the video, and it is not explained what they mean. I have gotten information from the maker of the video what they are, however.

The only thing that can/will stop this J1 attack is if the Soviets stacked all 18 infantry in Amur.

In that case, both I and the maker of the video strongly advise not to do this strategy (I learned this the hard way, trust me, it’s painful to watch). I recommend, if the Soviets declared war, to attack that stack. Air units, landing back, can defend Jehol and Manchuria from the Mongolians.

Did you attack the 8 undefended tanks in Baltic States?

@Commando:

@ghr2:

@Commando:

@ghr2:

Brando, why would you leave 1 inf in each territory?  The only ones that matter are rostov and Baltic States.  You will lose 6 ipcs in units for not much gain in epl/bess.

I leave 1 Inf in each territory, so the Axis/enemy can’t just walk in. Inf have a 33% chance of a hit. Prevents a country from just taking a territory w/1 Inf. Usually the attacking country has to attack w/2 ground units, just in case your Inf gets a hit. Also prevents the enemy from sending just one ground unit on a long walk across your territories(i.e. when Japan starts marching across the Soviet Far East). I don’t always do this. Like in China, I consolidate the Chinese Inf whenever possible. But in Russia, I always try to leave at least 1 Inf in each territory. One thing to point out, I don’t leave 1 Inf in each territory, unless the enemy has a chance to take that territory.

Because they only have a 33% chance to hit, I would not want to risk giving away nearly free infantry kills to Germany unless they are defending something valuable.  Each infantry you put in his way is 1 less body defending something critical for a 33% chance to kill 1 thing.

It’s not just a 33% chance of killing something. It’s making the enemy commit more than 1 Inf/1 ground unit to take the territory How would this hurt a country like germany that will have mechs constantly reinforcing and the positioning does not screw him?. Maybe you didn’t read my entire post. Again, I don’t always leave 1 Inf behind in each territory(i.e. China and other territories) Japan can just send 1 inf and air, it really won’t hurt him if he wants to.. However, leaving 1 Inf behind on such things as islands, even 1 IPC islands. Your enemy would most likely have to commit at least 2 ground units to take the islandIt depends on the value of the island and the likelihood he/she would go for it.. Therefore, forcing your opponent to commit more resources to take territories and have less units to use elsewhere. I understand what you mean, but this is also a game of economics and efficiency.  If your opponent does not need to go for it, or is not even affected by it, the one infantry won’t be an issue.Like I said in my explanation, Soviet Far East is a good example. There are 13 IPC’s from Soviet Far East to Vologda/Samara. If your strategy is to leave these unguarded for Japan to just take w/1 Inf, then go for it. In my opinion, over the 26 years I’ve played A&A, it’s the wrong stategySince russia can easily stop japan from taking it unless Japan commits more to the front, it really is not an issue.  Also, with mongolia, it won’t be unguarded.

thanks again for further clarification, makes all sense to me!:-)

No Problem.

To Ghr2,

Appreciate the apology.  Takes a lot to admit faults one might have.  I just think you should use a little more tact when posting.  Just because you are super competitive doesn’t give you the freedom to be rude/offensive.  I am competitive as well.  I just tend to lean towards giving people the benefit of the doubt. I may not agree with a strategy but I will wait to see it before I start saying it won’t work.  You have great ideas on counters to situations, you just word them bad.

Regarding me playing you.  I did PM you in order to play a game when I had no idea how to use triple a.  I just needed someone to help me through the initial process and I had hoped that would be you.  What I got was short, nondescript replies implying that I was an idiot for not knowing how to use the program.

No.

Use every avalible resorce to hurt your enemy and take out as many pieces as possible as early as possible. Bomb the hell out of Britian and then Russia,  take the British money and use it against Russia and for homeland defence.  In our last game where the allies lost all three axis were knocking on the Russian door.  It was ALPHA+2 and it was one on one (double boards set up) but i think the basic principals apply
  Keep a good frame of mind (lotto winner attaude) even after a bad set of rolls
  3 weeks ago I failed to take France on turn 1 The week before I almost didnt take it on 1 so the next week I hit it harder and failed two weeks went by and I was all three and I had some good dice and the Axis got it
  I havent played the latest 3 or 3.5 but from what i read it seems like it favors the Axis slightly more than the +2
good luck and if at first you dont succeed try,try again

Welcome, indignation!

Retreating is done at the end of a combat round.  You can’t skip the prior steps and go straight to retreating, so you must fight at least one round of each declared battle.  It’s the same in all versions.

However, in AA42, AA50, and AA40, attacking (and defending) subs may avoid fighting by submerging at the beginning of the first round if there are no opposing destroyers.

The colored major and minors are people’s own creations. And I find either 2, 4, or 6 players is best (6 is a stretch b/c of you could get knocked out). And, for example, if i play a 4 player game i divide the powers

Germany and Italy
Japan
US and Russia
UK, Anzac, France, China

6 players
Germany
Japan
Italy
US China
Uk France
Russia Anzac

If you’re new i would either recommend the allies for a two player, probable UkAnzacFranceChina for 4 player and either italy, USchina, or UKFrance for a 6 player. Whatever you do, don’t play as Japan (and probable not Germany either). I’ve played my fair share of new players and Japan is disastrous. At least with Germany they know to go in the general direction of moscow. But with Japan i’ve seen people ignore the DEI. Game over.