@jwo1984:

Yeah that’s understandable. I’m the same too with the bulk of pieces already painted it really takes a new HBG expansion set to get my brushes out again. Or right now my buddy and I are trying out Guadalcanal for the first time. And I noticed the US start out with a generous amount of b17 fortresses so I wanted to repaint some for the game. Well whenever you get inspired again I will look forward to more showcases from you.

I hope I can get to it… maybe after a few things clear out of my schedule in the coming weeks. I always feel the need to paint when I see the cool stuff you guys are working on.

@Young:

Thanks CWO Marc, really appreciate your comments… do you play often? I understand there is a lot of players in Montreal, do you have a game group?

For many years I’ve had too much going on in my life, professionally and otherwise, to have had time to do much of anything other than collecting the A&A games.  And, to be honest, I have too many issues with many of the features of the various A&A games that I’ll probably never play anything other than what I’m hoping to create at some distant point in the future when I do have the time for it, which is a completely personalized version of the Global game that, for all intents and purposes, keeps the sculpts and the map board but throws out the entire rulebook and reconceptualizes the game from scratch.  And it’s not even fully correct to say “keeps the sculpts and the map board” either.  I’ll be expanding the number of nations and the number of unit types by making use of the very large pool of A&A sculpts I’ve acquired over the years, for instance the ones from the early-edition games and the ones from 1941 and 1914.  And as I’ve noted in the thread where I’ve posted pictures of my custom table, one of the first things I did to the Global 1940 map was to rework its “under-the-plexiglass” roundel allocations to better reflect the structure of the world as it existed prior to the invasion of Manchuria in 1931, as a starting point from which I can then modify the map (by placing roundels on top of the plexiglass) to represent any subsequent starting date from 1931 onward.  A related project that I worked on to create the infrastructure for this eventual new game was the Global 1940 map inventory, a copy of which I posted over here last September:

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=36590.0

But at this point I don’t have an actual plan for what this reconceptualization will look like.  Nor am I likely to do so until I have the time to work on this project solidly for months at a time…so this may have to wait until retirement (which isn’t for tomorrow by a long shot) before this idea translates into anything concrete.

You could still use the tiles and on a big piece of card stock,  draw the territories bigger on card stock. Then you can place all pieces on card stock.

It be like the Capitals were drawin on the 87 game on the sides of map for more room.

I’ve posted a suggestion in the other thread where you asked this question:

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=37111.0

@Duff:

I tried to post photos for you but this forum won’t let me post links for some reason.

Because of the forum’s anti-spam software, you need to have a certain minimum of posts (I think it’s 10 but I’m not sure) before the forum gives you the option to post attachments.

Nice work - Dare I ask how many hours you put into it? For interest’s sake.

Nice work , lots of detail

I went to the local dollar store and bought some plastic storage trays that fit all my pieces. The blue tack planes and stands all fit in one of the trays, so i don’t waste time breaking them down. The odd one i have to reattach, but the freeing of space on the board is worth any hassle. I think in time i will invest in the magnets for the stands and planes, would be nice to have every plane with magnets so the stands will be more universal.

@Dafyd:

THAT IS SO COOL!  That is truly incrdible detail.Â

thanks Dafyd…this was my first post of the bombers but it screwed up, I have the other thread with the same title with more of them painted if you liked this one.

They have a turn, I believe, before the US player. The US player usually controls them, but they are still play as their own country. They have their own rules, which you will need to study.

You don’t necessarily have to have the Chinese dice, but is cool to own them, if you can get them.

I hope this helps. :-D

John

Excellent job. I also love the subs.

what was the outcome of this?
was the pieces returned?

since its christmas please tell me this had a happy outcome  :-)

(just curious, I haven’t bought anything from mclovin)

YGH…

It will add the enthusiasm for sure to do more videos!

BH

**Great work! Those are awesome. **

Is there something wrong with the pictures on the first couple of pages of this thread?  I only see a placeholder, generic image icon where the pictures should be.  :?

Sounds like a fun project.  The fundamental problem you’d have to solve, however, is the fact that the country names and – even more problematically – the country borders that existed historically in WWI were in some cases quite different from what they were in WWII.If you make them accurate for WWI, you’ll eventually end up in an alternate-history situation in which you’re fighting WWII on a WWI map with WWI powers as players.  It can also be argued that the political extremism of the 1920s and 1930s that eventually led to WWII was a direct result of the way WWI ended (specifically, the Versailles Treaty), and that if you alter the end of WWI then you alter the situation that eventually led to WWII.  That’s fine if working in an alternate-history environment is something you’re comfortable with; you simply have to be aware that you’re dealing with alternate history.

In terms of the map problem, perhaps the only option that would cover all the bases accurately, regardless of the political situation at any given moment, would be to use a simple map that is purely topographical rather than political in its territorial divisions.  A supplementary element could be to add overlays (drawn on large acetate sheets, or something similar) that provide political borders which can be adjusted from decade to decade.

That is awesome looking. Great job! :-D

Hi All,

If someone is interested, here 's our R&D set: https://www.mediafire.com/folder/owrasqpeass6a/R%26D.

These are materials for the Standard Global 1940/42 2nd edition rules and also for our simple houserule.

To speed things up we sometimes play a houserule. There the d12 board is used for along with a 12 sided die. Rule: at the beginning of every scond round (once a year) the player will roll a 12 sided dice for R&D w/o any payment. The player will gain the corresponding number in the R&D table as an ability at the end of that round. This is to give the player already the advantage during the buy phase, but not in the current attack (which he can prepare). Rolling a R&D number that you have already obtained is just though luck.

Let me know what you think, enjoy!

grtz

Wow!  Such cool pieces! (Been awhile Paul)  And there’s others I’ve yet to see that are posted -

I’m not aware of such a blank outline map existing.  Your best option might be to cover the game map with several taped-together sheets of clear acetate (the kind used for purposes like overheard projection) and trace the borders with a felt pen to produce a blank outline.  You’d then have various options for transfering this outline to the wood surface.  A low-tech method would be to cover the wood surface with sheets of carbon paper (if you can still find any, since it’s gone out of style), place your acetate outline over the carbon paper, then trace over the borders with a hard pencil.  Alternately, you could scan or digitally photograph your acetate outline and use that as the printing file you mentioned.

Had to bump this thread for research.