I just wanted to add these so if people were wondering whatever became of these articles:
The Allied Strategy:
The Axis Strategy:
End of turn 9. Axis win.
Came down to allies lost 5 figs and bombers only hit like 15%. A lot of bomber attacks where in pairs against tanks. So Ave would be 1 kill but not this game. Bombers only had like 3 or 4 hits the whole game. That hurt big time.
Turn 8 allies had 7 defense hits to clean out St Lo but on turn 9 the figs didn’t get good move hits on axis and couldn’t clear out St Lo turn 9 in combat rounds.
Allies are a bit stronger in this game. As mentioned above Ger art placements are key ( killed 5 figs most early )and mid turn allies fig placements can be challenging due to so many Ger zones to cover.
Germany may of had a chance for Caen but,
UK Gold beach units and so on have to go towards St Lo. Just watch the Germans on the back side.
I did use the on fig return card u rolled a d8 die.
1 = lose a plane
8 = get a plane back
Rolled a 1 once and next turn rolled a 8 so ends up 1 fig couldn’t get used 1 turn.
And that’s that !
@SS-GEN said in Blockhouse Questions:
Can the allies either attack a Blockhouse or just leave that zone with the Block house ?
If the Allies are in a zone with a Blockhouse do they have to do combat and cannot move out of zone ?
Seems to me they get a choice of moving out or attacking.
They cannot move out. Blockhouses are land units, so they are locked in combat.
Block houses get to attack at 3 against lone allies units in that zone on axis combat turn ?
If say there’s 2 block houses in a zone with 5 allies units attacking 1 axis unit in same zone and allies get 3 hits the Block houses are destroyed along with the 1 axis unit correct ?
Get d8s here. D8 Truncated Octahedron. Call first might get a deal.
A reminder there is a few very small blank surfaces on these d8’s. Just reroll them or count as a roll for a miss.
Only happens once in awhile. If u look at dies on site and blow up pic you can see them. I can post pic of them if you need it.
If u buy a few quantities but off course for u shipping costs could be 15 - 30 bucks
Other wise you got to use those goofy d8 football dies that don’t roll.
You would think. What hurts Allies is if they can’t land on beaches more than once and for axis killing planes with art.
Most say game favors axis.
I’ve been testing using a d8 die and so far
Allies 4 to 1. Every allies win game down to getting 3rd city on t9. Only thing I have come across is axis art against planes. May increase number. By going to d8 or chance of rolling a 6 decrease with a d8 instead of a d6. This helps allies with less chance of landings on beaches. Plus an but increase in deployment but that goes both ways
@SS-GEN WOW! so it doesn’t matter how many planes are there. only how many Artillery pieces. I have been playing it wrong! Thanks
“Shoot Down Air Units: Artillery can shoot down attacking air units. Whenever an order card so directs, each artillery
can fire on one air unit in its zone. Roll one die per artillery against an air unit: On a roll of 1, that air unit is destroyed.” AN air unit. not EACH air unit.
Maybe go 2 infantry if you are going to do it by amount of units not cost of units. We tried a bid of 9 (3 inf were placed) and the axis got steam rolled each time.
So your saying with fortune cards not in game Allies win 40% of the time without 2 inf but 60% with the 2 inf bid?
Negative. I am saying a bid of 6 where the allies placed 2 inf resulted in balanced matches whereas a bid of 9 where the Allies placed 3 infantry lead to strong allied victories.
Obviously, skill, dice and players use of the tactics cards all contribute to the end game result however if you are using a bid for the first time I am just making the suggestion that a bid of 6-7 is a good starting point. That way your group can play a few games and work out if you need more or less.
I usually play 2 player, so I like the allies
Using the airforce to block and lock down key areas is critical and can really make the German player scream.
However if you start to loose planes your end game just got much harder
Incidentally, I was just looking at WotC’s Anniversary reprint page…
…and I noticed that the “More Info” links at the bottom – which lead (not surprisingly) to 1941, 1942, and Europe 1940 – also include (rather oddly) a link to D-Day rather than to Pacific 1940:
The link just leads to a D-Day graphics page rather than (as for the other games) to a page giving actual game info, so I’m not sure what to make of this link. It may be an error which is there instead of an intended link to Pacific 1940.
It’s often that St. Lo gets left till the end, and I find the “works” are indeed heavily gummed up by that point. That’s why I proposed the KSF (Kill St. Lo First) Strategy.
I’m also surprised that you send a “small” force to Cherbourg. I’ve done the same and ended up not having the force needed to take it (with the 1 round of combat deal). With a full zone (Eight Units) plus a few extra units, it’s a tough crawl. I like to gamble on my landings at least once and land upwards of Utah Beach. I’ve posted previously posted about avoiding Omaha by gambling on the “Allies Land” card.
To Cherbourg: I like to engage my bombers for at least 3 rounds, and make sure the “Onshore Bombardment” hits when the time is right in the Peninsula. It’s easy enough to take (IMHO) if you eliminate 65% of the defenders before you get there. Keep Axis Re-Enforcements in mind as Germany can send tonnes of units Upwards to Cherbourg up until Turn 5 before they become redundant. When attacking that “Must Have” city of Cherbourg, employ my “Great Wall of Planes” (see D-Day Post) to stem the tide of Axis Forces.
. . . . . . . . .
The terms D-Day and H-Hour are used for the day and hour on which a combat attack or operation is to be initiated. They designate the day and hour of the operation when the day and hour have not yet been determined, or where secrecy is essential. For a given operation, the same D-Day and H-Hour apply for all units participating in it. When used in combination with numbers, and plus or minus signs, these terms indicate the point of time preceding or following a specific action. Thus, Hâˆ’3 means 3 hours before H-Hour, and D+3 means 3 days after D-Day. (By extension, H+75 minutes is used for H-Hour plus 1 hour and 15 minutes.) Planning papers for large-scale operations are made up in detail long before specific dates are set. Thus, orders are issued for the various steps to be carried out on the D-Day or H-Hour minus or plus a certain number of days, hours, or minutes. At the appropriate time, a subsequent order is issued that states the actual day and times.
Correct. Good explanation. WWII had many “D-Days”, but the one on June 6 1944 became so famous that it has tended to overshadow the rest, and to occupy a category by itself.
@JustLuthor I have the True Neutral Lid done (All true neutrals and mongolia). I’ll work on the other one soon. Let me know if you need the sides of the box too. The colors may not be fully match with out of game box if printed out.
True Neutral Box
to @djensen @Panther @redrum . You all have put a lot of work into the transition. @simon33 has been helpful with his comments as well.
And thank you to everyone else helping out with the change.
It may take a while to get used to the new program, but it’s gonna work just fine : )
@Midnight_Reaper said in 20 Years of Axis & Allies .org:
@CWO-Marc As for what we did and did not have back in 2000, I made a small chart
Great chart, Midnight Reaper; it brings back lots of memories. A further point to note is that, in Classic, only the infantry sculpt was nation-specific and was based on authentic WWII designs; the equipment sculpts started following the same design principle with Europe / Pacific / Revised, though it took a long while to achieve (by combining E1940.2, P1940.2 and 1941) a full array for everyone except France. We were also treated to some neat special-category sculpts: the German blockhouses in D-Day, the American and German trucks in Bulge, and the entirely-other-war sculpt set of 1914. Another nice development in the official games has been the addition of China, Italy, ANZAC and France to the original five powers (US, UK, USSR, Germany and Japan). And in the early days, people who wanted extra types of units (or extra colours to represent other countries) had to make do with third-party products like the Xeno and Table Tactics ones or the Enemy on the Horizon expansion set, the quality of which was uneven and the availability of which wasn’t always great. Things certainly have changed.
@SS-GEN said in The new forum has been a lot of work and it's not done yet:
I know it’s getting better but I posted a reply for my game report in house rules and with the changes the stuff just gets buried. Somebody post another tread reply and such now you have to go threw every topic to find it. Just sayin.
If I’m understanding correctly, there’s no difference between the old forum and the new forum for this situation. If you post a topic, and a bunch of folks post different topics, your topic will eventually end up on another page unless somebody replies. On forums, “stuff gets buried” all the time.
Also, you absolutely do not have to go through every topic to find your topic. This has come up multiple times, there are tips and tricks that cover this, I added helpers in the navigation bar. Not to be harsh but I’m just not sure what else we’re supposed to do.
Here’s a recap of your options:
Notifications: there is a bell near your avatar on the toolbar. When somebody replies, there will be a red number. Click that and you’ll get all of your notifications.
Replies to your Posts: I literally added this to the toolbar because people were complaining about finding their stuff. It’s the double-left arrow in the nav bar. It’s literally the same as clicking Notifications followed by “See all Notifications”
Recent Topics: Click the clock in the nav bar. Where it says “All Topics” select “Watched Topics” instead. You can even select a category to further narrow it down.
Recent Watched Topics: Click the eye in the nav bar. That will give you “recent” watched topics, including any topic you made or any topic you replied to. (I think I’ll change this to the next one)
All of Your Watched Topics: Go to your profile. Click the 3 dots. Click Watched.
Your Topics: Go to your profile. Click the 3 dots. Click Topics.
Bookmarks: If a particular topic is super important, then click the three dots on a topic, the one next to Reply, Quite, <heart>, < 3 dots> and click Bookmark. To find your bookmarks: Go to your profile. Click the 3 dots. Click Bookmarks.
That 6 ways to find your stuff. The old forums had a stupid icon that was hard to see and made no sense, I think it was a face or something. The replies to your posts was nice but we have that and more.
Note: there’s a bug with your watched topics if you have infinite scrolling turned on. I’ll file it later.