What happened to the videos?
Use the links on the original post to get to his channel, then watch his Channel Update #1. It explains things.
Link for his Channel Update: www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2hV-wwlWas
Played a fair amount of games during confinement and quite often my opponents had poor ratios of land units for the big battles.
Ive played more with artillery and the system is not that different from what ive post 3 years ago.
(assuming tanks cost 5$)
1- do not lose art or tanks in the first 2 rounds
2- have as less as possible infantry alive after the first 2 rounds.
3- between 1 & 2 give rule 1 the priority***.
4- number of artillery should be as close as possible of the number of infantry that survive round 1, aim for more rather than less. (having not enough art hurt more than having too much of them wich implies less tanks***)
5- rest are tanks if they cost 5$.
60inf to kill. you estimate they are going to make 20 hits on R1 (you will make at least 15) so hopefully they will make 35 hits or less in the first 2 rounds. So you need around 35i and 15a (35-20)
cost of total units 211$
35 inf+14 art+10 tanks(211$) = above 52% & close to 80% for LL.
34i + 11a + 13t = above 48.5% and slightly under 46% for LL (not enough art)
33i + 13a + 12t = slighty under 51% and 74% for LL.
36i + 12a + 11t = 50.5% and under 56% for LL
36i + 17a + 7t = 54.5% & 90.7% for LL
36i + 22a +3t = 55.5% and 85% for LL
34i+12a+12t = 48% and under 39% for LL
35i+15a+9t = 51% and under 71% for LL
***There is a small “bonus” for having more units especially when the stacks make less than 25 hits on the first round.
@AdmrlScuttlebut Cool that you figured it out.
In the future - when you have a forum related question - you could take a look at the Tips&Tricks. There are a lot of helpful topics/postings in the Website/Forum Discussion category, for example this Chat related one: https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/post/1246438.
@CWO-Marc said in Infantry Pieces and Numeration/Nomenclature:
@Patchman123 said in Infantry Pieces and Numeration/Nomenclature:
Is one color for Europe 1940 and the other color for Pacific 1940?
I have no idea beyond the guess I previously made, which evidently was wrong. My primary interest is the A&A sculpts, so I’ve never paid close attention to the cardboard chips; somewone more knowledgable about A&A game history than me will have to provide an answer to your question.
Who would that be?
@usmc3537x You just need to download TripleA: https://triplea-game.org/download/
Then you can download the maps from in game after installing and launching it. You can play against the AI, join the lobby to play live, or play by forum/email.
More detailed instructions can be found here: https://www.axisandallies.org/forums/topic/17147/gargantua-s-k-i-s-s-triplea-instructions
Re: How to know when to buy air as GermanyI remember one game I won as the axis I used the sub push tactic and built nothing but subs Germany had like 7 subs and 3 bombers for support and wiped out the English navy in the 1942 edition and japan had closed in on Russia and scared the Americans with 9 subs out of the pacific so it was a great game for the axis
@frasil18 Welcome to the forum.
We use a software called “TripleA” to play A&A-related games.
I recommend that you check out the TripleA-related stickies in the TripleA Support Forum
Everything you need to know is described in detail there.
There are two stickies in the “Player Help Forum” (where I moved this topic to):
Hi, thanks a lot for your replay but my adobe acrobat doesn’t work in the right way… as it should …
I was trying to print the Axis e Allies 1914 map so a high resolution JPG file will do for me.
If you know anyone who has a JPG file of the 1914 map could you please inform me?
thanks a lot
Starting to play more and I was wondering do all the box sets have the game pieces in the same scale?
The short answer is “mostly yes”.� The longer answer is a bit more complicated.� From game to game, A&A sculpts have generally been on the same scale when you compare units belonging to the same unit class; in other words, specific sculpt X will generally be the same size no matter which game it comes from.� Within each class, however, scales can vary; for instance, the Yamato and Iowa battleship sculpts are roughly the same size, even though in reality Yamato was much bigger than Iowa.� There’s even more variation between unit classes, the most extreme case being the scale of the infantry sculpts and the scale of the battleship / carrier sculpts.�
There have also been some cases of scale changes for specific units.� The British and German battleship sculpts became larger and more detailed when many of the sculpts were “refreshed” at one point.� The German 88mm sculpt went from being small (and mis-representing field artillery) to being large (and correctly representing an AAA gun), and the same thing happened to the Stuka (which originally mis-represented a fighter rather than a dive bomber).� And note that the ANZAC infantry sculpt is somewhat notorious for being rather large compared with other infantry units.
Reading the reply I see I should have asked the question better. I should not have used the term scale as the pieces are different scales compared to each others but you fully understood what I was trying to say so thank you.
I will point out I had never thought about the different types of planes and guns that the sculpts are until you pointed it out so now I will have to go thru my games and compare them all. I know I’m helpless and get sidetracked very easy maybe a little ADD on my part, but what else would I do tomorrow?
For beginners, I’ve always liked A&A Europe the original. It’s out of print, but still obtainable. There’s even a copy for $25 on BBG!
It’s easy to play, dramatic, and not too long. It teaches the basics of game play without getting too bogged down in technical rules.
41 is WAY too stripped down- A territory encompassing Poland, the Baltic States, Romania, Hungary, and Bulgaria? Italy, Yugoslavia, and Greece as one territory controlled by the Germans and worth 1 IPC?
Buy 1942 at least. The only reason to get 1941 is the special piece molds.
On the plus side, it’s the cheapest Axis and Allies game available.
to @djensen @Panther @redrum . You all have put a lot of work into the transition. @simon33 has been helpful with his comments as well.
And thank you to everyone else helping out with the change.
It may take a while to get used to the new program, but it’s gonna work just fine : )
@Imperious-Leader said in Axis & Brollies : Action Cards and Event Cards:
you should set it up with card decks made at “Artscow” or something like it in terms of name. They are sold as long as you set up account and you will earn a bit of change
www.makeplayingcards.com was recently (2019) used successfully by siredblood to produce his “Blood Bath” A&A version card deck - at a resulting fair price for consumers
drivethrucards.com was recently (2018) used successfully by Young Grasshopper to produce his co-deck “Omaha” and “Utah” cards for A&A G’40 - at an absolute steal of a deal for consumers
If you have not already done so, please consider selling your deck(s) at either or both sites - I would love to see you get paid for your work.
Since I had the U.S. naval colors out, I pushed through with the Lexington rebuild.
Here’s the previous look.
Reused everything but the rear structure, boosting the fwd. island about 1.5mm. Rear section fabricated with styrene stock.
Think I might have gone a little to big? Still 100% better. That’s what I get for trying to use the rear of a classic tank turret the first time.
Stay safe all.
@JustLuthor I have the True Neutral Lid done (All true neutrals and mongolia). I’ll work on the other one soon. Let me know if you need the sides of the box too. The colors may not be fully match with out of game box if printed out.
True Neutral Box