Meh, new to Axis and Allies discussion boards… need some terminology explained

@Soviet-Steamroller said in New Industrial Complex placement.:

I always wondered why Borneo and/or East Indies where not seen that often with factory built as it looks like a great base of operation for Japan or even UK!

There is a fairly common house rule to not allow Industrial Complexes on islands, specifically targeting Japan, to keep such a strong/game winning move out of the game.

Agreed, need and want are different. From what I gather, they only waited about 3 years between 1942.1 and 1942.2.

It’s nice to not have to house rule too much - even using a bid implies some additional play testing would have been beneficial. But to be able to discuss strategies here, etc, requires us to have the same rules. :)

Or you can just download the rulebook from the WOTC site, grab extra units (from other or older games), paint them to match, print a map out created by Imperious Leader and you should be on your way.

This is what I did any way.  Although I went as far as to recreate the Combat board, IPC chart and National Objective/Setup Charts.

Clever thread title… +1 karma.

Edit (title is completely relevant to your post - sorry, was reading very late at night)

I second Dondolee’s thoughts.  When starting out bear in mind how the game is ultimately won - for the axis, by taking Moscow before the allies can take either Rome or Berlin.  It’s a race to see who holds out longer.

Japan should efficiently grab land in the first two or so turns, build up factories in South Asia (rounds 1-4) and then ply tanks and infantry through India > Persia > Caucasus > Moscow.  Send enough troops through China and Siberia that you’ll have enough to punch through, but sending the bulk of your force on the southern route.  As you play more games, take note of which strategies allowed you to occupy territories faster and get a better flow of troops to russia.

Italy and germany’s role is to stay rich and keep russia poor.  They generally don’t have enough power to crack russia without some early luck, so you just need to treat 'em rough and keep 'em honest.  Never let russia get their 10 IPC objective - this is a death knell.  While you want to deny and pressure russia as much as possible, your main task is to not let UK/US kill you - a tough balancing act of agression/defence.  There are many ways to skin this cat, but piles of infantry and scattering of tanks are the best place to start from a learning perspective.  You’ll soon find the limitation of infantry - while extremely cost effective, they can only be in one place at a time.  It’s hard fighting two wars that are 5 spaces apart. While boats and planes pack less punch for the money, they can threaten a much larger area.  Once you get a handle of the flow of the game, you’ll find many ways that german planes and boats can improve your effectiveness.  As dondoelee points out, this is playing with fire and you expect to get burnt a few times while you figure it out - start simple.

Cheers

@Sime:

I recently upgraded to a bigger board, but before that I was thinking about using those thin business card sized fridge magnets (the kind that some businesses give away for free) to hold the board in place.  I was going to cut 6 of them in half and glue them to the back of the boards like in this diagram (the black rectangles are the magnet halves in case it wasn’t obvious).

I was then going to use 6 more (uncut) magnets as joiners, connecting the boards.

I think would help stop warping at the edges where the magnets are so you can easily slide navies or armies over those sections without having to pick up the navies/armies and place them on the other side of the edge.

Although I didn’t have a pretty picture, I had essentially the same idea.

http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=12827.15

I’m not exactly sure how refrigerator magnets work, but in general when you break a magnet with a north and south pole into two pieces you get two new magnets (each with their own north and south pole). This is because there are no magnetic monopoles as a result of one of Maxwell’s equations $\nabla\cdot\vec{B}=0$. If refrigerator magnets work like this, then only half of each magnet that is cut in half will be attracted to the un-cut magnet holding the board together; the other half will repel. However, I don’t think this is how refrigerator magnets work. I think they’re made up of a bunch of little dipoles and your idea should work fine. However, might a rigid, thin strip of a ferromagnetic metal such as iron or steel serve as a better spine(s)?

@Craig:

@Bierwagen:

@Craig:

The control markers on the edge of the board,are those for country rankings,for the IPC’s?

Yes.  I placed an IPC track along the outer edge of the board.

That’s a great idea.  Do you have magnets under your control markers so they don’t move around?

Mind posting a copy of your IPC tracking strip for the rest of us, it’s a great idea.

I’m also interested in where you got the cool clamps you use to keep the board together.  It sounds like we’re going to need something like that for the AA50 OOB map.

No magnets.

The IPC track is just something I whipped up with MS Word.  Nothing special.  Just make your own chart and then cut it into long strips.

If you look closely, I actually have a paper copy of the playtest map sandwiched between plexiglass and a piece of hardboard.  Then I just used some clips that are meant to be used on glass cabinet doors.

I do agree that there may be a need to come up with some kind of clips to hold the map sections together but I don’t think that these are applicable.

Craig

Why dont you fess up already. You and Larry have been playing 1v1 for months.

How dare you hold out on us !!!  :lol:

cant wait for thursday night then. :-D